uncovering the individualist, iconoclast, leader, follower, imitator, trend-setter, inspired and independent; the whore, slut, prude, effeminate, delicate, and luxurious; the animal, the gruff, the masculine, and the muscle-flexing; the smooth, the rough, the balanced and unbalanced, the harmonious and unharmonious, the reserved and outspoken, the adamant and uncertain and the confused; and the simple-minded, homogenous, insipid, and uninspired; in the expression of wine.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Schloss Gobelsburg


Vintage: 2007
Producer: Schloss Gobelsburg
Appelation(s): Heiligenstein, Langenlois, Kamptal
Grape : Grüner Veltliner
Sweetness Level: Trocken (Dry)

On My Palate:

All of the lemon except the actual meat of the fruit. Ginger, lemongrass. A creamy, oily body. Screaming acidity.

The Dregs:


A proven point that rich, complex wine can be made without oak. Is America listening? When I’m in the mood for the sweet seduction of the vanilla orchid against a rich, creamy background, I eat vanilla yoghurt. Yet the new generation of wine drinkers is infatuated with getting a buzz off of toasted vanilla. Not in Austria. Broke wine geeks are comparing Austrian Grüners with the best white Burgundies. Why? Because they offer a lush, compelling expression of vineyard place, not of the sap of a French oak forest. Yet the umlauts and seven-syllable German words succeed in thoroughly confusing the average wine drinker and keeping international demand, and prices, for these Austrian wines low.

Where:

In the empty lounge at Addison del Mar. The Sabonet silver clinks against the Bernardaud porcelin and echoes under the vaulted ceiling.

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