uncovering the individualist, iconoclast, leader, follower, imitator, trend-setter, inspired and independent; the whore, slut, prude, effeminate, delicate, and luxurious; the animal, the gruff, the masculine, and the muscle-flexing; the smooth, the rough, the balanced and unbalanced, the harmonious and unharmonious, the reserved and outspoken, the adamant and uncertain and the confused; and the simple-minded, homogenous, insipid, and uninspired; in the expression of wine.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Littorai



Vintage: 2007
Producer: Littorai
Region: Sonoma Coast
Grape : Chardonnay
Vineyard: B. A. Thieriot

On My Palate:


Tropical and candied with rich vanilla up front. Moves into a fresher, mineral-driven second half.

The Dregs:


Mike, one of two tasting partners tonight, visited Littorai and described the experience as “religious.” Ted Lemon, the man behind the label, is a Université de Bourgogne-educated and domaine Guy Roulot of meursault-trained winemaker. He is inspired by and actively exemplifying biodynamic and sustainable winemaking practices.

On paper, this wine expresses the ocean-blasted, fog-shrouded, rugged sonoma coast; a place so desolate and exposed to every pounding vagary of the pacific’s weather that i can understand mike’s look to the heavens as he stood in Littorai’s impossible ridge top vineyards.

So why am I reminded of piña coladas in the tropics when i drink this wine? A mineral acidity drives the second half of the wine like an afterthought. I wonder when Littorai will guide its winemaking principles and magnificent site towards veracious, unique wine that may not please the most ignorant hedonist but will turn the head of the dogged, truth-seeking wine drinker.

Where:

In the empty lounge at Addison del Mar. The Sabonet silver clinks against the Bernardaud porcelin and echoes under the vaulted ceiling.

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